What I do is iron the original pattern (low heat), then lay it out on a flat floor (the kitchen is good). Then I use a felt pen to trace the size lines onto the pattern fabric that are appropriate for my measurements. (Be careful of bleed-through, however.) One nice thing about doing it this way is that if you’re between sizes, or more than one across your body, you can “smooth” between the sets of outlines to create a custom fit.

Just wanted to say that what I usually end up using for pattern paper these days is plain brown postal wrapping paper. You can buy it at dollar stores for a ridiculously cheap price per roll; it’s strong enough to take multiple pinnings; and it’s blank so you can write on it easily. A side note when labelling your pieces: I find it very helpful to write “Victorian Corset – Size 10 – 1/5 pieces” on it along with the exact piece description. Most of my patters end up in manilla envelopes in a box; when a piece falls out it’s very helpful to be able to tell at a glance where it belongs, or if that collection of pieces has any missing. Also, marking the size and style on it helps when I’ve got a friend who’s looking for a certain pattern.

So far as seam allowances go: during the making of a pretty complicated pattern one day I got fed up and whipped up a handy little tool that I’ve used for years. Just take a fine point Sharpie felt, a plastic cocktail sword (it was just after New Year’s lol), and some masking or duct tape. Tape the one to the other, points down, so they’re at the same height (so they both touch the paper at the same time). If taping the plastic drinks sword directly to the marker makes the seam allowance too close, then tape a popsicle stick between the two. This will also allow you to put the cap back on the Sharpie (just tape them together with the lid on, and don’t overlap the lid with the tape; that gave me around a 1/2″ SA).

To use it just trace the pattern with the tip of the sword; the felt automatically writes the SA at the correct distance.

I’m about to dive into my first Steam Punk costume myself. I’m a bit nervous, because while I’ve been sewing for literally decades at this point, I don’t usually use pre-bought patterns, which I have for the undergarments and corset. I’m going for a historically correct silhouette; but the tissue paper with the multiple sizes on it scares the heck out of me, lol. I’m afraid I’ll cut one size out and then someday need a different one, and not be able to use it; I’m scared I’m gonna damage the pattern (with two small kids and a large dog and no dedicated sewing room anymore this is a real risk). I should just get some mac tac or something and stick it to the back of the pattern to make it stronger; but I’m also scared I’m going to get a wrinkle in the paper and be unable to straighten it, thereby rendering the whole thing useless.

Soooo many fears. XD Hold me? XD

Aww, I’ll muddle through somehow!