<?xml version="1.0" encoding="UTF-8"?><rss version="2.0"
	xmlns:content="http://purl.org/rss/1.0/modules/content/"
	xmlns:dc="http://purl.org/dc/elements/1.1/"
	xmlns:atom="http://www.w3.org/2005/Atom"
	xmlns:sy="http://purl.org/rss/1.0/modules/syndication/"
		>
<channel>
	<title>Comments on: The Custom Construction of Corsets – pt 3 – adding structure to the back layer, finishing and boning in a corset.</title>
	<atom:link href="http://www.steampunkfamily.com/2010/01/the-custom-construction-of-corsets-%e2%80%93-pt-3-%e2%80%93-adding-structure-to-the-back-layer-finishing-and-boning-in-a-corset/feed/" rel="self" type="application/rss+xml" />
	<link>http://www.steampunkfamily.com/2010/01/the-custom-construction-of-corsets-%e2%80%93-pt-3-%e2%80%93-adding-structure-to-the-back-layer-finishing-and-boning-in-a-corset/</link>
	<description>Stirring Adventures and Mad Mods! Saving the world one questionable decision at a time.</description>
	<lastBuildDate>Mon, 09 Jan 2012 18:54:15 +0000</lastBuildDate>
	<sy:updatePeriod>hourly</sy:updatePeriod>
	<sy:updateFrequency>1</sy:updateFrequency>
	<generator>http://wordpress.org/?v=3.3.1</generator>
	<item>
		<title>By: The Dressmaker</title>
		<link>http://www.steampunkfamily.com/2010/01/the-custom-construction-of-corsets-%e2%80%93-pt-3-%e2%80%93-adding-structure-to-the-back-layer-finishing-and-boning-in-a-corset/comment-page-1/#comment-8199</link>
		<dc:creator>The Dressmaker</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sat, 22 Jan 2011 21:04:50 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.steampunkfamily.com/?p=699#comment-8199</guid>
		<description>Have just ordered my twill tape and intend to start with the duct tape wrapping tomorrow... The instructions are great and comments very helpful... Despite having my own bridal/ special occasion label for 10 years and sewing for nearly 30 (eek!) I have NEVER made a proper corset... Time to give it a try!</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Have just ordered my twill tape and intend to start with the duct tape wrapping tomorrow&#8230; The instructions are great and comments very helpful&#8230; Despite having my own bridal/ special occasion label for 10 years and sewing for nearly 30 (eek!) I have NEVER made a proper corset&#8230; Time to give it a try!</p>
]]></content:encoded>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>By: Kryss LaBryn</title>
		<link>http://www.steampunkfamily.com/2010/01/the-custom-construction-of-corsets-%e2%80%93-pt-3-%e2%80%93-adding-structure-to-the-back-layer-finishing-and-boning-in-a-corset/comment-page-1/#comment-7674</link>
		<dc:creator>Kryss LaBryn</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Thu, 23 Dec 2010 07:19:09 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.steampunkfamily.com/?p=699#comment-7674</guid>
		<description>Ah, yes, packing strapping! :D That&#039;s what I used in my two 18th century corsets; the stuff ROCKS. Perfect size, perfect flex, and as you say, free most places. You can also buy it new; ask the lumber yards where they get theirs. I got mine new for $15 for 500&#039;!

You want to make the channels about 1/2&quot; longer than the boning, though, or it&#039;ll wear through pretty quickly. I like the electrical tape suggestion. I used that plastic tool dip stuff on the tips of mine and they wore right through it-- and then through my pretty top fabric. Oops! Note to self: if you&#039;re going to use a pretty but non-denim front to the corset, put a front layer of denim (or coutil or what) in there and then cover that with the pretty (but weaker) stuff. Oh well, live and learn.

I found I had a helluva time sewing boning channels evenly, so what I ended up doing was buying some twill tape in a suitable colour for about 1/2&quot;, maybe a little less, wider than the packing strapping. I think it was probably 1&quot; wide twill tape. The stuff is dirt cheap and tough as nails. I then pinned it in place, running the pins in line down the centre of the tape.

Then, with a zipper foot on my machine, I stitched along one edge of the tape. Following the edge of the tape with the edge of the zipper foot that the needle is on sets the stitching just a couple of millimetres in, which is just the right distance; and following the edge of the tape was much easier than sewing over a line for me.

Insert the boning, pin it in place (i.e. pins along the seam allowance part of the twill tape) , and VERY CAREFULLY run the edge of the zipper foot against the boning, under the tape, again with the side of the foot with the needle against the covered edge of the boning. I ended up turning the wheel by hand so as to not accidentally stick the needle into the boning. I wouldn&#039;t recommend that if you&#039;ve got bad wrists, but slow as it was, at least it was accurate and I got each channel sewn correctly the first go. Unpicking it over and over again because I could NOT sew a straight line was not only driving me mad, it was ruining my fabric. Really made me with I had a foot-treadle-powered Singer, though!! If I was doing it regularly I would have made a treadle table for it; the belt for the sewing machine from the motor is accessible on my unit at the side so it wouldn&#039;t be too difficult to do.

Speaking of ruining my fabric, I ended up using the cheap-ass store-bought dress grommets, the little 1/4&quot; or so ones. They didn&#039;t set worth a damn, and as you said, if you hammer on them too much they can actually neatly scissor out a perfect circle from your fabric; but I found that setting them just firmly enough to stay in place, and then whip-stitching all the way around each one with embroidery thread actually made them really solid. It&#039;s tedious but a good task while watching TV. 

I used very long cotton shoelaces for the one corset, and 1/4&quot; ribbon for the other (which slid smoothly enough through the covered grommets that I could do up the corset myself; the ribbon is easily strong enough to tug on as hard as needed). Both laces worked fine, even with the narrower grommet holes and the thread.

Twill tape SO saved my butt on those corsets! XD As I recall, on the first I just had one layer of jeans-weight denim (non-stretch, of course) with the channels made of twill tape on the inside; it worked beautifully.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Ah, yes, packing strapping! <img src='http://www.steampunkfamily.com/wp-includes/images/smilies/icon_biggrin.gif' alt=':D' class='wp-smiley' />  That&#8217;s what I used in my two 18th century corsets; the stuff ROCKS. Perfect size, perfect flex, and as you say, free most places. You can also buy it new; ask the lumber yards where they get theirs. I got mine new for $15 for 500&#8242;!</p>
<p>You want to make the channels about 1/2&#8243; longer than the boning, though, or it&#8217;ll wear through pretty quickly. I like the electrical tape suggestion. I used that plastic tool dip stuff on the tips of mine and they wore right through it&#8211; and then through my pretty top fabric. Oops! Note to self: if you&#8217;re going to use a pretty but non-denim front to the corset, put a front layer of denim (or coutil or what) in there and then cover that with the pretty (but weaker) stuff. Oh well, live and learn.</p>
<p>I found I had a helluva time sewing boning channels evenly, so what I ended up doing was buying some twill tape in a suitable colour for about 1/2&#8243;, maybe a little less, wider than the packing strapping. I think it was probably 1&#8243; wide twill tape. The stuff is dirt cheap and tough as nails. I then pinned it in place, running the pins in line down the centre of the tape.</p>
<p>Then, with a zipper foot on my machine, I stitched along one edge of the tape. Following the edge of the tape with the edge of the zipper foot that the needle is on sets the stitching just a couple of millimetres in, which is just the right distance; and following the edge of the tape was much easier than sewing over a line for me.</p>
<p>Insert the boning, pin it in place (i.e. pins along the seam allowance part of the twill tape) , and VERY CAREFULLY run the edge of the zipper foot against the boning, under the tape, again with the side of the foot with the needle against the covered edge of the boning. I ended up turning the wheel by hand so as to not accidentally stick the needle into the boning. I wouldn&#8217;t recommend that if you&#8217;ve got bad wrists, but slow as it was, at least it was accurate and I got each channel sewn correctly the first go. Unpicking it over and over again because I could NOT sew a straight line was not only driving me mad, it was ruining my fabric. Really made me with I had a foot-treadle-powered Singer, though!! If I was doing it regularly I would have made a treadle table for it; the belt for the sewing machine from the motor is accessible on my unit at the side so it wouldn&#8217;t be too difficult to do.</p>
<p>Speaking of ruining my fabric, I ended up using the cheap-ass store-bought dress grommets, the little 1/4&#8243; or so ones. They didn&#8217;t set worth a damn, and as you said, if you hammer on them too much they can actually neatly scissor out a perfect circle from your fabric; but I found that setting them just firmly enough to stay in place, and then whip-stitching all the way around each one with embroidery thread actually made them really solid. It&#8217;s tedious but a good task while watching TV. </p>
<p>I used very long cotton shoelaces for the one corset, and 1/4&#8243; ribbon for the other (which slid smoothly enough through the covered grommets that I could do up the corset myself; the ribbon is easily strong enough to tug on as hard as needed). Both laces worked fine, even with the narrower grommet holes and the thread.</p>
<p>Twill tape SO saved my butt on those corsets! XD As I recall, on the first I just had one layer of jeans-weight denim (non-stretch, of course) with the channels made of twill tape on the inside; it worked beautifully.</p>
]]></content:encoded>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>By: Spotlight On: The Steampunk Family &#124; South Mountain Media</title>
		<link>http://www.steampunkfamily.com/2010/01/the-custom-construction-of-corsets-%e2%80%93-pt-3-%e2%80%93-adding-structure-to-the-back-layer-finishing-and-boning-in-a-corset/comment-page-1/#comment-6742</link>
		<dc:creator>Spotlight On: The Steampunk Family &#124; South Mountain Media</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Mon, 04 Oct 2010 23:44:12 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.steampunkfamily.com/?p=699#comment-6742</guid>
		<description>[...] third or fourth life. Whether cruising the skies in their dirigible or giving practical advice corset construction or disguising modern conveniences as antiques, the Steampunk Family bring the adventure and and [...]</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>[...] third or fourth life. Whether cruising the skies in their dirigible or giving practical advice corset construction or disguising modern conveniences as antiques, the Steampunk Family bring the adventure and and [...]</p>
]]></content:encoded>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>By: The Custom Construction of Corsets – pt 2 – Pattern Making, Fabric under layer, and Tailoring &#124; Steampunk Family</title>
		<link>http://www.steampunkfamily.com/2010/01/the-custom-construction-of-corsets-%e2%80%93-pt-3-%e2%80%93-adding-structure-to-the-back-layer-finishing-and-boning-in-a-corset/comment-page-1/#comment-5682</link>
		<dc:creator>The Custom Construction of Corsets – pt 2 – Pattern Making, Fabric under layer, and Tailoring &#124; Steampunk Family</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Mon, 24 May 2010 20:25:22 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.steampunkfamily.com/?p=699#comment-5682</guid>
		<description>[...] Part 3 adding-structure-to-the-back-layer-finishing-and-boning-in-a-corset/ [...]</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>[...] Part 3 adding-structure-to-the-back-layer-finishing-and-boning-in-a-corset/ [...]</p>
]]></content:encoded>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>By: Fearless Fabricator</title>
		<link>http://www.steampunkfamily.com/2010/01/the-custom-construction-of-corsets-%e2%80%93-pt-3-%e2%80%93-adding-structure-to-the-back-layer-finishing-and-boning-in-a-corset/comment-page-1/#comment-5395</link>
		<dc:creator>Fearless Fabricator</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Fri, 26 Feb 2010 13:03:52 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.steampunkfamily.com/?p=699#comment-5395</guid>
		<description>Ouch, broken boning can be painful as well a ruining a lot of hard work.  Drain tape will work or some electrical fish tape. In your case it should be about the same size in wide and thickness.  It will take some work with a file or a grinder to smooth the end once you get them cut.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Ouch, broken boning can be painful as well a ruining a lot of hard work.  Drain tape will work or some electrical fish tape. In your case it should be about the same size in wide and thickness.  It will take some work with a file or a grinder to smooth the end once you get them cut.</p>
]]></content:encoded>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>By: AbigailsCrafts</title>
		<link>http://www.steampunkfamily.com/2010/01/the-custom-construction-of-corsets-%e2%80%93-pt-3-%e2%80%93-adding-structure-to-the-back-layer-finishing-and-boning-in-a-corset/comment-page-1/#comment-5393</link>
		<dc:creator>AbigailsCrafts</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Fri, 26 Feb 2010 05:12:50 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.steampunkfamily.com/?p=699#comment-5393</guid>
		<description>I wish this tutorial had been up last year when I hand-stitched an 18thC flat-front type corset! 
Especially the tip about plastic boning being a waste of time... I used acrylic rods, which snapped dramatically on the subway the 3rd time I wore it *oops*
I&#039;m thinking of replacing them with &#039;drain tape&#039; - a very affordable source of sprung steel, as you can buy it at the dollar store.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I wish this tutorial had been up last year when I hand-stitched an 18thC flat-front type corset!<br />
Especially the tip about plastic boning being a waste of time&#8230; I used acrylic rods, which snapped dramatically on the subway the 3rd time I wore it *oops*<br />
I&#8217;m thinking of replacing them with &#8216;drain tape&#8217; &#8211; a very affordable source of sprung steel, as you can buy it at the dollar store.</p>
]]></content:encoded>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>By: denise</title>
		<link>http://www.steampunkfamily.com/2010/01/the-custom-construction-of-corsets-%e2%80%93-pt-3-%e2%80%93-adding-structure-to-the-back-layer-finishing-and-boning-in-a-corset/comment-page-1/#comment-5345</link>
		<dc:creator>denise</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Fri, 19 Feb 2010 22:14:08 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.steampunkfamily.com/?p=699#comment-5345</guid>
		<description>WOW. Thanks so much for the step by step images. I am in the process of making a mock up of a corset using my own measurement and drafting my own pattern but your way seems so much easier(less maths, always a plus). I will definantly be having a go using your method. Thanks.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>WOW. Thanks so much for the step by step images. I am in the process of making a mock up of a corset using my own measurement and drafting my own pattern but your way seems so much easier(less maths, always a plus). I will definantly be having a go using your method. Thanks.</p>
]]></content:encoded>
	</item>
</channel>
</rss>

