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The Custom Construction of Corsets – pt 3 – adding structure to the back layer, finishing and boning in a corset.

By Fearless Fabricator on Wednesday, January 13th, 2010

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Part -1

Part 2

This is part three of a living document on making custom corsets. It will be edited, revised, and have new information and links added as readers post comments. So please post your comments, questions and tips so that other can learn from your experience as well as mine.

This is one of those projects in which precision is your friend. The more precise your work is, the easier the project will be. Deviation in this kind of project seems to multiply, causing more and more problems as you work. I over build corsets a bit, so I am going to show a heave duty method, that with one modification can be used to make a corset in which the boning sleeves don’t show on the outer layer. This one’s edge will be finished with homemade bias tape, but later I’ll try to show other edge finishing methods.

It’s time to choose boning to stiffen your corset. Traditionally, wood and whale bone where common, with upwards of a hundred staves in a single garment. Today’s cheap corset, bustier and merry widow have light wieght narrow plastic boning in them, often leading to structural failure, even with the first wearing. Perhaps if used in the hundred plus numbers still they might hold up, but in truth they’re a waste of petrochemicals. You can buy corset bones in a variety of lengths and thicknesses from companies like Farthingales. While they have nice round rubber end, their lenth selection is limited, usually comes in only half inch and they are kind of pricey.

What I normal use is steel lumber-packing band, free on the floor of the lumber yard near you. It is strong, flexible, and commonly comes in 5/8 and 1 ¼ inch width. Trim to length with metal shears, round the end and cover with a bit of electrical tape (perhaps some spray paint if you’re that kind of person) and there’s your custom boning. These days, more lumber is coming in plastic packing band, so this corset is a mix of the two weights of plastic packing band I from laying around, with a double stack of the heavy weight inside of the grommet area. The heavier weight was also used as the boning between the breast. So far so good.  Thus an occasional hand washable corset.

Set aside the cover layer for a while, once your have sewn it to match the tailored backing layer.

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Measure the width of your boning, and add and 1/8th inch for sewing variance. (5/8’ for the boning + 1/8’ variance = ¾’ inch) Now starting on a straight edge of a single layer your backing fabric, working with your grain start marking out your boning sleeves. For example, 5/8’ inch seam allowance, the ¾” for the boning, 5/8’ inch seam allowance, repeat for each piece of boning that will be in the corset. I mark every six inches up the fabric for consistency until they are about four inches long than I think I will need them to be. I also draw the cutting lines as I connect the mark in a different color, then the sewing lines around the boning. On this particular corset there is double boning in the front center, so I made a double sleeve by skipping the center seam allowance. (figure 2)

The boning inside the grommet, under the lacing, the back edge in this corset doesn’t really need a sleeve, but the extra sleeve you cut gets sewn in to the backing layer to re-enforce the grommets. In figure 03 you should be able to see the seam allowance markings, a space for the boning and then the grommet re-enforcement strip. The rest of the sleeves are laid out on the backing layer where the boning is desired, then pinned into place. If in doubt, look at other corsets, the picture of the corset yours is modeled after, or a pattern for inspiration. Most of the time the sleeves stop at an edge, but sometime one must make an educated guess as to where to end a bit of boning. For example, when does the desire for support end and a shoulder strap begin? On this corset the boning is in a slight fan on the front. On a simple corset, most follow the seams. I often zig-zag down the edges, for strength.

Basting helps on this step. Quick and broad hand stitches not only let the seamstress precisely align the sleeves, but also do a better job of keeping the layers’ seams aligned and maintaining the position of various pieces while machine sewing. Sadly one of my sewing weaknesses is a failure to baste when it’s optional, so I have no examples to show.

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Instead I just preceded to sew down the sides and top of each sleeve, leaving the bottom open. Better to make the sleeve a bit too wide than too narrow. With the right sides of the backing layer and outer layer the together, sew the grommet edges, then turn right side out. Be careful to push out this seam (with a pin or a ruler from the inside), and press, to prevent making a pocket. (figure 04)  Sew down the edge about an 1/8” in from the edge. Then sew a parallel seam in from the width of your boning plus 1/8”, and a third parallel seam in from that based on the width of your grommets plus 1/8”.

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At this point the easiest thing to do is to line up and pin the seams of the outer and backing layer across the top and arm holes . Don’t finish the bottom yet. Sew the two layers together 5/8” from edge. (figure 05) Trim to a scant ¼ inch.

A design choice for this corset was to have boning stiching show on the front of the corset. When sewing though all layers it is important that they line up. At three points along each seam a pin was pushed straight though to check the alignment before they were pinned together. It is best that the layers’ seams are with in a 16th of an inch of each other. (figure 07) Once again basting would help.

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Because this is a waist-altering corset, the addition of an internal canvas belt was put in for support. (Ideally this would be between the top layer and outside of the boning for maximum effectiveness.) (figures 08 and 09) It is important the belt run from grommets to grommets, and preferably has at least two grommets in each end. This was pinned at each boning sleeve. On this corset, because one of the boning stays ends where a shoulder strap starts, the stopping point of the sleeve was double checked and marked on the backside. Sewing carefully and accurately, the boning sleeves were re-sewn, through all the layers, still leaving the bottom of each sleeve open. (figure 10)

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Now I made matching bias strips into matching tape, and sewed them onto the top and arm holes, in order to finish those edges. Now I marked 5/8” on the inside, from the bottom of the corset for each stay sleeve. Each boning stay should be a ¼ or an inch shorter then from the top of the sleeve to this mark. Once all your boning is in place, then it is time to sew shut the bottom, being careful to not sew over the boning. Safety glasses are not out of place during this last few steps. (That’s right, time to USE those goggles!) Trim down to a scant ¼ inch and finish with bias tape. (figures 11 , 12 and 13)

Grommet Time – but first a soapbox rant. The common fabric store grommets I have found to be an abomination. Most are light duty, made out of thin metal. Typically the two parts of these cheap grommets both have a notched barrow that fit one in another. (Good grommets – one side has a solid barrow and the other side is a washer.) They don’t fit tight, once set, so the force of the lacing is not defused and fraying is not checked. Sometimes their edges are even sharp and will cut the fabric as you put them in. After all the hard work you have put in so far, don’t start cutting corners now. If you are in a hurry, maybe your local hardware store has heavy-duty grommets. Better yet plan ahead and order some and the setting tools from a corset notions supplier.

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The grommets for this corset were set 1” on center and just about a 1/8” in from the first stay. Mark them in chalk, double check their alignment, then punch the holes for them. A hammered punch into a piece of hard wood works better for fabric than a hand punch. Set your grommet. Lace it up with ribbon, shoe laces or parachute cord (it comes in almost as many colors as thread from online sources) and its finally done. (

figure 14)

Some other notes, for the curious:

A modesty panel is a 2-4” wide double sided strip of fabric running down the length of the corset behind the grommets and lacing. It is sewn only down one side. You can add a ¾” modesty panel behind the button side of a busk as well.

An alternative to re-enforced boning sleeves is to sew the back and front together to form a sleeve between the out and the backer later. This is a method I would only use for a limited wear corset, and it has to have a heavy outer layer.

Another way to finish the top and bottom edges is to sew the outer and backing layer faces together at all but the grommet lacing edge and turn the piece right-side out for hand sewing and grommeting. Topstitching will crisp the top and bottom edges, but be care about breaking needles when you sew over instead of around boning.

If people are interested, I’ll posted some examples of the other finishing variations, making you own boning, or making your own bias tape. Homemade bias tape is the bees knees, and isn’t hard to make.

Farthingales is a reliable but pricey source of corset making supplies.

Folkwear Patterns has the best pattern paper I have found.

The Custom Construction of Corsets – pt 2 – Pattern Making, Fabric under layer, and Tailoring

By Fearless Fabricator on Wednesday, November 4th, 2009

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Part 1  was the custom pre-pattern

Part 3 adding-structure-to-the-back-layer-finishing-and-boning-in-a-corset/

This is part two of a living document on making custom corsets, as it will be edited, revised, have new information and links added as readers post comments.  So please post your comments, questions, and tips so that we can learn from your experience as well as mine.

For this step you can you have some options for the pattern material.  For years, I used newspaper because it was free.  It has many drawbacks, beside the whole smearing ink issue.  Notes written on the pattern can be hard to read, it does not hold up well and just ages poorly in general. Pattern tracing paper is another option.  The stuff I have found in the fabric stores is wretched stuff, because it is flimsy, weak and hard to write on.  Now, I use the pattern tracing paper stocked by the people at Folkwear.com.  It’s not expensive and doesn’t have the drawbacks of the other pattern materials. For simplicity’s sake, no matter your choice, I’ll call it “pattern paper”.

If you are making an heirloom, a garment for a paying client, or a single layer (such as an undergarment) corset, coutil is prime choice for corset backing fabric. It is pricey, and Farthingales seems to be the only reliable source of it I have found so far.  However, canvas or heavy canvas duck will work just fine for multi-layer or limited wear corsets. You will need about a yard to a yard and half for the under-layer, stay sleeves and grommet re-enforcing.

Corset can be built one layer fabric, two layers or three layers.   Common retail is the two layer corset, with a cover layer and a backing layer.  For this description we are using a backing layer, a cover layer and sleeves for the boning.

Start by marking some alignment notches, double notches, etc at different levels on both sides of the various seams.  Mark the top, grain line and also label the panels (front, front side, side, rear side, rear, etc.)  Now cut the duct tape pre-pattern apart on the seam lines you drew on it while it was on the client.  Think about how the seam will work as you sew the (eventual) fabric back together. (figure 3 & 4) Make sure to remove the reduction curves from the pre pattern.  The individual pieces should at this point lay out fairly flat.

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Now you are ready to make the pattern from the pre-pattern. You can work on the floor, but a table is better.  Banish the cat. Lay out your pre-pattern pieces on the pattern paper, leaving about an inch minimal from any edge, and an inch and a half between any pieces. (figure 5) One at a time, press each pre-pattern piece flat while you trace around it.  A clever seamstress can shift the pieces a bit to deal with curve in the pre-pattern, however the less experienced should probably trace them as they lie.  Transfer notches, tops, label, etc to pattern.  Set aside the pre-pattern. You shouldn’t need it again if all goes well, but it can be helpful for thinking your way out of a problem.

Once all parts are traced out use a ruler or a hemming ruler to make a consistent seam allowance around each pattern.(figure 6) For a 5/8” seam allowance I mark a ½ inch, to compensate for tracing expansion from the pre-pattern to the pattern. I use a different color marker for my seam allowance than my pattern tracing to avoid confusion.  If the seam allowance overlaps from one pattern piece to another, make sure to mark the area that is going to be a bit shy and try to make it obvious.  Transfer your notch marking out to the seam allowances lines.  Finally, cut out the pattern on the seam allowance line.
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Take a moment to look at what you have. Experiment mentally or physically with the pieces just to double check how they will work.  For example, in figure ??? I have marked for a seam to end in a dart.  For ease of fitting, I have decided to make this into two separate pattern pieces instead.  After cutting them apart, because I used quality pattern tracing paper, I was able to sew on some scraps, add seam allowances, and then trim them.(figures 7 & 8 )
You are ready to start on the backing layer.  Lay out and pin down the pattern piece on your coutil or canvas, being conscious of how the grain will minimize stretch and straighten the garment. DON’T CUT OUT THE COVER LAYER YET. Remember to include your notches.  Once it’s all cut out, you’re ready to sew the pieces together.  With contrasting curves you need to pin frequently and to pin a small gather of fabric where the seam will be, if you want a tidy seam.( figure 9 ) If you want to use a busk in the front, heavily but temporary baste that seam to gether. Do not sew the lacing / grommet edges together, however you can zig-zag stitch the edge to minimize fraying.  Just keep in mind none of these seams are set in stone yet.

It’s fitting time. These next two fitting step are important to the process, so pay attention.

Step one is the fitting itself, and you are going to wish you had six extra steam-powered hands, and could sew the backing layer on the Client.  Try the corset backing on the client.  (Client here – as in the pre-pattern, wear whatever you intend to wear under the corset, if anything, and hold still! Or get stuck with pins.) Pin the top and bottom closed at the lace/grommet area. The waist will not stay pinned closed if you are making a corset with any shape to it whatsoever.  Use your hands to pull this area closed as you look at the shape of the backing layer.

It should just fit at the top and be a tad loose on the hip so as not to bunch up the Client’s skin or cut in.   I use pins when I can to fit, if not I use chalk marks and sewing by matching seams, removing old seams, and refitting, until I am happy.   Once the top and bottom are correct move to tailoring the belly.  The stomach of a corset should be flat or slightly concave if the client’s body allows.  The chest is next, perhaps with some adjustment to get the cleavage where and how you want it, to allow tailoring to keep the desired position.

Then, on to the waist.  It is amazing how much one can safely, and with minimal discomfort, compress the side of the waist between the floater ribs and the top of the hips.  The floater ribs can only take a little compression and the rib cage itself is best to avoid, unless the client really knows what s/he is getting into.  A good rule for corset beginners is, if you can just pull the back closed with your hand, the corset should be comfortable for the client.  Ask to make sure.

Step two is to transfer any new seams to both pattern pieces that each new seam affects. ( figure 10 ). Measure new seam allowances off of these new pattern lines, remembering to transfer notches.  Trim the pattern on the new seam allowances.

Now, you’re ready to cut and sew the cover fabric to match the backing layer.  Lay pattern pieces out on the fabric so the cut out pieces will look their best when sewn, paying attention to grain and design of cover fabric.  Also you can clip the seam allowance to help curves lay flat, and zig-zag stitch all the seams on the backing layer down flat, which also helps re-enforce the seams.

In part three I’ll show you how to finish up the custom corset.